Sunday, 7 December 2014

Evaluation

Throughout this brief I have learnt so much about the Elizabethans, not only about their make up and fashion but about their lifestyles. I have especially enjoyed learning about Queen Elizabeth who I feel is very inspiration throughout her life. I loved learning about all the ways they created their make up with the small amount of resources they had in these times, no matter how damaging it was to their skin. It made me appreciate how lucky we are in these times and showed me how far people would go to gain the ideal face of beauty of those times. Although we got to look at basic techniques, I really enjoyed learning the parts that are especially for the Elizabethan style such as Blocking Eyebrows or the perfect white base.
If I were to do this again I would want to find more primary and secondary research, especially looking at more books. I needed to incorporate more portraits and more influences throughout my study. Other than that I've found the blog extremely helpful in keeping track of the development of my work. My technical files have always been useful to look back on and remind me of the skills I've learnt.

Assessment- In the role of the Make Up Artist




I am extremely happy with how my partners design went and I think it went better than all my practises. One of the parts I was worrying about most was blocking out the eyebrows however with Kats' advice on my last practise I feel that it worked out as my best attempt yet. I also feel that my attempts to keep the look symmetrical were a lot more successful and this design really helped me with learning how to be precise. 
I am very happy with how me and my partner worked together, for this look we moulded it from the first design to highlight both Lily's design skills and my make up skills. I feel that next time I should do the hair and create a few accessories or clothing ideas that would bring the look together as a whole. On the whole I enjoyed creating Lily's look as I love how dramatic the make up is. 

Assessment- In the Role of the Designer





These are the images from my partners assessment. The design has stayed the same from the beginning as me and my partner decided we were both happy with the design. We had a few issues in the assessment, for instance my skin was extremely dry because of the winter weather so the white supra colour didn't go on very evenly. This meant we had to put more of a base on so that the white went on smoother the second time. Although it wasn't perfectly smooth it was a lot better on the second attempt and it helped both me and my partner learn that sometimes you have to over come issues on the job. Other than this my design went well and we were happy with the end result.

Practise- In the Role of the Make up Artist

Need:
Cleanser
Toner
Glue
Primer
powder
Ultra foundation palette
Viva brilliant colour medley matte palette
Lip rouge mini palette
Illamasqua neutral palette

Step 1: using the glue block out the eyebrows, powder them down. Using the smallest amount R21 from the supra colour palette, place on top of the blocked brow and powder again. 
Step 2: prime the rest of the face to create an even base
Step 3: using a blend of G177 and OB2 from the ultra foundation palette cover the brows and rest of the face, don’t forget to blend out into the hairline, the ears and the neck.
Step 4: using Obsidian from the neutral palette and an angled brush create a line from the curve of the nose outwards to above the brow. Make sure this line is dark.
Step 5: using a mac blending brush blend out this colour.
Step 6: once this is blended out enough start to blend in Caraway from the viva brilliant colour medley. Blend this outwards until you get to half of the line.
Step 7: using LC52 from the lip rouge mini palette, paint the lips.

Step 8: using obsidian from the neutral palette contour the cheeks and blend the line so it isn’t so harsh.



Due to my partner going home ill for a week I practised her final look on myself. We had made some minor changes to the look after a discussion about certain aspects. For example we changed the base from white to a skin tone foundation base as we felt the look duplicated the black swan with the white base. Once practising the new design I sent the look to my partner and she was happy with the outcome. I feel that I need to practise blocking eyebrows a little more before I do the final assessment but other than that I am happy with the look. 

Practise- In the Role of Designer

Need:
Cleanser/toner
Glue
Water
Supracolour palette
Glamour glow palette
Viva matte palette
Elf palette
Brushes
Primer
Powder
Mascara wands

Step 1: ask the model if they are allergic to anything, check their skin for diseases or hygiene issues and decide whether its okay to work on the face.
Step 2: cleanse and tone the face to get off excess makeup and dirt on the face.
Step 3: using glue and powder, block out the eyebrows. Keep layering until brows are completely gone.
Step 4: prime the face to give a smooth base.
Step 5: scrape out the white supracolour 070, using a foundation brush cover the whole face, including ears and neck. Make sure this is even and buffed in, you can use a powder brush to buff any uneven bits.
Step 6: using the glamour glow palette, colour bronzing sun, contour the cheek bones, the nose and the temples.
Step 7: to create a darker contour use a thin line of Bronzing summer on the cheekbone and blend in.
Step 8: using the bottom red from the elf palette, create a contour from the corner of the nose up and round the eyebrow bone. Blend out.
Step 9- using supracolour 079 red, create sparse brow hairs along the eyebrow bone.
Step 10: using fennel from the viva matte palette, colour the eye lid.
Step 11: use supracolour 079 red again, create a thick panel down the eye, blending so that the grease product doesn’t smudge. Continue this line to just under the lower lash line. Do this on both eyes.
Step 12: use a mascara wand and supracolour 070 white on the lashes, making sure to coat the top and bottom.
Step 13: use supracolour 070 white as the main colour on the lips.

Step 14: using the supracolour 079 red, create a line down the lips similar to the one on the eye.


3 Brush Challenge

I wasn't sure how I would do with the 3 Brush challenge, but I was looking forward to giving it a go. I chose to use a foundation brush, a large shadow brush and an angled liner brush as I felt these would be the most versatile.
I started by asking my model if they had any allergies, which she doesn't then I cleansed, toned and moisturised the face. Then I primed the face and used the foundation brush to apply it. Using a mixture of Fs 38, Olive and Alabaster from the ultra foundation palette and the foundation brush I created a base on the face. I wasn't sure if a powder puff would count as a brush so I didn't set the face. Next using the Illamasqua neutral palette I scraped out some of the colour wolf and used the angle brush to fill in the brow. Then using the large shadow brush and the colour vintage I filled the eyelid, I then cleaned the brush and used it again to blend out the colour. I cleaned my angled liner brush and with the colour Obsidian from the illamasqua neutral palette I created a small winged liner effect. Once again I cleaned my angled liner brush and using LC152 from the lip rouge mini palette I filled the lip.
In the end I really enjoyed the challenge and although I wouldn't chose to use 3 brushes on a job, if I was ever in the situation that I could only use 3 brushes, I wouldn't find it as difficult.


Saturday, 6 December 2014

Masters of Drawing

Leonardo da Vinci
Da Vinci was a man of many talents from sculpting to engineer, from science to inventions and of course art. Although he is primarily known for his art, discovery of subjects such as geology, anatomy etc were found in his notebooks showing that he had a fantastic mind.
Two of his most famous works are the Mona Lisa and The Last Supper. The Mona Lisa is an oil painting on a white panel which is believed to be painted between 1503 and 1506. It is on permanent display at the Loure museum in Paris after the King Francis I of France acquired it and it became the property of the French Republic. It is so famous for its ambiguity as her expression is so blank. There have been times where the painting has been stolen, one time by Louvre employee Vincenzo Peruggia as he believed it belonged in Italy.  The Last Supper is in the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria Delle Grazie, Milan and is one of the worlds most famous paintings. It represents the theme of The Last Supper with Jesus and his disciples as told in the Gospel of John and was made when reneovations to the church and convent were planned. There has been many restoration attempts however due to environmental factors the paining has very little original factors.
Some of his favourite work of mine however is his artist-engineer which show sketches of the human body and they physics of light and shade. Da Vinci used grave robbers and hospital directors to get him body parts to study, which was very illegal in these times, hence why the images were kept secret for so long. I love the detail in the photos and the way the shading gives everything such depth. I have used his work as inspiration for many of my pieces. 

Leonardo da Vinci
Da Vinci was a man of many talents from sculpting to engineer, from science to inventions and of course art. Although he is primarily known for his art, discovery of subjects such as geology, anatomy etc were found in his notebooks showing that he had a fantastic mind. 
Two of his most famous works are the Mona Lisa and The Last Supper. The Mona Lisa is an oil painting on a white panel which is believed to be painted between 1503 and 1506. It is on permanent display at the Loure museum in Paris after the King Francis I of France acquired it and it became the property of the French Republic. It is so famous for its ambiguity as her expression is so blank. There have been times where the painting has been stolen, one time by Louvre employee Vincenzo Peruggia as he believed it belonged in Italy.  The Last Supper is in the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria Delle Grazie, Milan and is one of the worlds most famous paintings. It represents the theme of The Last Supper with Jesus and his disciples as told in the Gospel of John and was made when reneovations to the church and convent were planned. There has been many restoration attempts however due to environmental factors the paining has very little original factors. 
Some of his favourite work of mine however is his artist-engineer which show sketches of the human body and they physics of light and shade. Da Vinci used grave robbers and hospital directors to get him body parts to study, which was very illegal in these times, hence why the images were kept secret for so long. I love the detail in the photos and the way the shading gives everything such depth. I have used his work as inspiration for many of my pieces. 

Reference:
BBC. (). Leonardo Da Vinci. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/da_vinci_leonardo.shtml. Last accessed 5/12/14.
Wikipedia. (). Mona Lisa. Available: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mona_Lisa. Last accessed 5/12/14.
Wikipedia. (). The Last Supper (Leonardo Da Vinci) . Available: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Last_Supper_(Leonardo_da_Vinci). Last accessed 5/12/14.

Chiemi, N. (). Leonardo Da Vinci and Dissection. Available: http://www.artcrimearchive.org/article?id=88001. Last accessed 5/12/14.

Sunday, 16 November 2014

Developing Ideas

From my inspirations I then created four contemporary Elizabethan ideas. I used both Elizabethan Portraits and Contemporary images to start up some ideas and went on from there.


One of my first looks was inspired by these three images. I still am very drawn to the lips in this first contemporary image and I feel that linking it with the second one will be subtle enough not to take away from the eye area. Now obviously there aren't very many looks from the Elizabethan Era that would be so drastic, but I fell in this portrait the eyes stand out a lot more than in other Portraits from that Era. They seem to have a reddish tinge on the eyelid which really works with her dark, plump lip. 
Tumblr. (). Tumblr. Available: http://www.pinterest.com/lucydbowler/new-elizabethan/. Last accessed 5/12/14.

Amy Robsart, Lady Dudley

Sarah. (). Circus Make Up Inspiration. Available: http://xosarah.com/2012/05/10/circus-make-up-inspiration/. Last accessed 5/12/14.
From these looks I created this face chart. I think that having a large splash of colour over the common pale tones of an Elizabethan would really stand out. I also wanted to created much rougher edges as the lips are quite soft and blended which is more linked to the Elizabethan Era. The shape I've created also reminds me of a heart on the lips, and Elizabethans would often have their hair in this sort of shape so I feel its a modern twist on the fashion. Although I like this look, I do feel that there could be some connotations to "super heroes" and I don't want to take away from the fact that this is a contemporary Elizabethan look. 

This time taking inspiration from this portrait of Elizabeth of Austria and looking at Pat McGrath for a modern prospective I started to put together some more ideas. What drew me to this portrait was the way her face looks much more contoured than in many portraits from this era, although it uses a much more rouge tinge than the bronzed looked of today. I also feel that unlike other portraits her eyebrows are a lot more prominent, although still pale. With this being said she still holds the traits of the time through the colours of her make up. So I wanted to play around more with this theory, now obviously I loved Pat McGrath's incorporation of jewels so I created my look my intertwining these two theories, the colour for the Elizabethan Era and the contemporary textures. 


Vogue. (). Pat McGrath: The Beauty Tribute . Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2012/03/30/pat-mcgrath-best-catwalk-make-up-photos/gallery/1253092. Last accessed 5/12/14.
My look has kept the face pale, with minor contouring, and I have incorporated the white with the rest of her skin, especially on the eye lids. To make this stand out I have then incorporated red jewels onto the lip and a mixture of red and white jewels to give a more modern brow. I do like the idea of incorporating jewels, as the Elizabethans would always incorporate this sort of thing into their hair designs and clothes so why not their faces? However I favour some of my other designs as they have more of a contemporary twist. 

When thinking of a contemporary Elizabethan look I instantly thought of Illamasqua and the heart shape look they did for one of their lines. It instantly screams Elizabethan to me due to the red lip and cheek contrasting the pale face. However I wasn't so keen on the dark brows as this isn't very linked to the Elizabethan Era. I chose this portrait of an unknown woman to coincide with the look, I feel that the heart shape hair was such a favoured look and was something I was interested into incorporating within my own contemporary look. 

The Blonde Unicorn. (). Illamasqua heart shaped nails. Available: http://theblondeunicorn.buzznet.com/user/journal/7924501/illamasqua-heart-shaped-nails/. Last accessed 5/12/14.
With these two looks I then created this face chart, sticking with the Elizabethan colours inside the heart and breaking off into a contemporary foundation and contouring. Although I love this look I'm not sure if its too close to the originals, I would much prefer to make it my own and experiment a little more. 

My final design was inspired by these three images. First being the Portrait of Elizabeth of Austria again, as i really do want to incorporate this sort of pale face with a contour. I then was looking at this cat walk make up and really loved how they used a deep red to contour the brow area, as I think a strong brow is such a contemporary mix on things. However the image I was most drawn to was this tattoo design I came across on Pinterest. Not only do the ruffles remind me of the Elizabethan Era but the very obvious use of red and white. I think having such a random line down the face can actually be quite intriguing and beautiful and I really wanted to experiment with this. 

Photography Blog. (2013). Inspiration make up and props. Available: http://semester2university.wordpress.com/2013/03/13/inspirational-makeup-and-props/. Last accessed 5/12/14.

Chasen9ne. (2011). Art is The Weapon . Available: http://inkwings.tumblr.com/post/12654793922/chasen9ne-harlequin-design-for-a-client. Last accessed 5/12/14.

I then created my final face chart. My first instinct was to create the pale face, this time blocking out the normal eyebrow shape. Then like the portrait I wanted to add some minor contour to the cheek and forehead, however not too harsh as I didn't want take away from the rest of the design. Then using inspiration from the catwalk image I wanted to create a shadow with red onto the eyebrow area to create more depth, and using a deeper red I wanted to create sparse red hairs. This is trying to stick with the Elizabethan era where they had hardly any brows but revamp it by just having a minor brow. I wanted the lips and eyes to be the main stand out, so using a thicker white as a base i then did one line through each feature, to create this clown like effect. This was by far my favourite, I love how you can link it so clearly with the Elizabethan Era due to the colours, but that the technique is so much more contemporary and out there.